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Soooooo….What is the Curly Girl Method?

The Curly Girl Method is a hair-care approach originally created by author and hair guru Lorraine Massey, and is a trusted + tried method used by thousands of people with curly hair as it leaves curls looking and feeling their best.

You may be completely new to the Curly Girl Method, or you may have seen it on TikTok or Instagram. Either way, it’s a must-try hack made specifically for those with curly hair. However, figuring out exactly what the method is and how to implement it into your own hair-routine can be difficult and overwhelming. That’s why we’re here to help! This blog post will set out what the Curly Girl Method actually is, guide you through the dos and don’ts, and help you find a range of curly girl approved products perfect for starting your haircare journey. To make things easier, we've broken the method down into 5 steps for you to follow. Sound good? Let’s dive in.

Step 1. FACTORY RESET

When first starting the Curly Girl Method, you have to do a bit of damage before things can get better. The tool you’re going to need is a clarifying shampoo which yes, sometimes do contain sulfates. A cleansing shampoo is necessary to remove any silicone and wax build-up from hair which will otherwise prevent hair and curls from returning to their clean, natural state.

As you will find out below, sulfates + cleansing shampoos dry out hair and are ultimately a curly girl no-go, but without this step, your curls will never be the best they can be. However, you don’t want to be doing this step often as the fewer harsh chemicals you use on your curls, the healthier they will be.

We Recommend:

• Zenz Menthol No.10 Shampoo
  
• HH Simonsen Cleansing Shampoo (the best shampoo for a total reset)
  
• R+Co Acid Wash ACV Cleansing Rinse & Oblivion Clarifying Shampoo (both sulfate-free)
  

Step 2. WASHING YOUR CURLS

The Curly Girl Method is kind of complex in that it gives you many options when it comes to washing your curls. Each method works for some but not all, so unfortunately it’s going to be a bit of trial and error to find the one that works for you. However, each method listed below is Curly Girl Method approved, and so are the perfect places to start.

Say Goodbye to Sulphates

The curly method is going to make you say goodbye to the daily use of ALL products containing sulphates. Sulphates are chemicals often used in shampoo + conditioner + hairstyling products, but are far too harsh for curly hair. Curly hair is naturally much drier than other hair types, and when it becomes dehydrated, hair cuticles start to lift which leads to dry, brittle hair. This leads to increased frizz and a damaged hair curl structure, which is going to affect the appearance of your curls. As sulphates dry out hair excessively, they are NOT Curly Girl Method Approved and must be avoided. So, make sure all products from now on that you use on your hair are sulphate-free.

Can I Ever Use Shampoo?

Like sulphates, shampoos are typically quite drying to hair and are therefore discouraged from being used when following the Curly Girl Method as a general rule (for the same reasons as mentioned above). While sulphate-free shampoos do exist and are less damaging on curly hair than regular shampoo, they are still are more drying (and therefore less desirable) than the methods stated below. However, a sulphate-free shampoo may in some cases be the only way to remove excess oil and product build up from curly hair, so when hair is feeling weighed down, they can be a go. Further, sulphate-free or low-poo shampoos are suited for curls that need lifting. This is often a want for curly girls with fine hair - so my fine curly girls, a sulphate-free gentle, hydrating shampoo may work for you. If you do use a sulphate-free shampoo, I would always recommend following it with a hydrating conditioner or a leave-in hydrating hair mask to restore moisture to hair.

Curly Girl Method Approved Shampoos:
- Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Wash Sulphate Free Shampoo
- Olaplex No.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo
- Hask Curl Care Moisturizing Shampoo
- R+Co Cassette Curl Shampoo
- 12 Reasons Shampoo Range
- Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Curl Defrizzing Shampoo

Co-Washing + Conditioner Washing

Just because you can’t use shampoo doesn’t mean it’s over for washing your curls. Instead, the method of conditioner washing or co-washing should be adopted. Conditioner + co-washing is where a conditioner (sulphate-free of course) or co-wash product replaces the role of shampoo in your hair care routine. Using a conditioner all over your head, including on your scalp, has the effect of cleansing + conditioning hair, while removing any product build-up without stripping hair of its moisture. All that is left behind is clean, soft, hydrated curls that are able to retain their natural structure, without any of the harshness that traditional shampoo brings.

Curly Girl Method Approved Conditioners:
- Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Care De-frizz Vegan Conditioner & Banana Butter Leave-In Conditioner
- Hask Curl Care Detangling Conditioner & Curl Care Intensive Deep Conditioner
- Olaplex No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner
- Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Curl Defrizzing Conditioner & Curl Immersion No-Lather Coconut Cream Cleansing Conditioner

Apple Cider Vinegar

An alternative method of washing curls that is Curly Girl Approved is by using Apple Cider Vinegar. Apple Cider Vinegar is used by many with curly hair as it’s all natural (so no nasty sulphates hiding here), relatively inexpensive and it helps to remove any product build-up, oil and dirt without weighing your hair down. Apple Cider Vinegar helps to balance your hair’s natural pH without altering the natural curl pattern, allowing curls to be restored in a gentle way. After using Apple Cider Vinegar, I would recommend following with a conditioner to restore hydration to hair as it can slightly dry out hair.

TLDR

- Avoid sulphates at all costs + shampoos where possible
- If product/oil/dirt build-up is significant, use either a sulphate-free shampoo or apple cider vinegar to cleanse
- If shampooing/cleansing hair, always follow with a hydrating conditioner / leave-in hair mask to restore moisture
- Ideally, swap shampoo for a conditioner washing or co-washing method (replacing shampoo with conditioner)
- Limit hair washing to around once a week

STEP 3 – HAIR STYLING

The Curly Girl Method confused me at first because hair styling actually comes before hair drying. This is because when hair is wet, it has the ability to lock in extra moisture, Product applied to wet hair therefore retains more of the product benefits, leaving hair more smooth, shiny and hydrated. Wet styling also sets curls in place as they hold their shape for longer and reduces frizz which is ideal when wanting to achieve defined curls.

It’s a NO to Wax + Non-natural Oils

While waxes + non-natural oils are a commonly used styling product, they are a no-go when following the Curly Girl Method. Waxes + non-natural oils weigh down hair as they build up easily on the scalp. This can lead to frizz and dryness, and typically requires a more harsh and damaging method of hair washing to remove. Because of this, these products are to be avoided when following the Curly Girl Method.

Rake, Squish + Scrunch

When applying hair products to curly hair, it is best to do so when hair is wet. Product should almost never be applied to wet hair using a brush, as wet hair is very fragile and can be easily damaged. Rather, use the rake, squish + scrunch method for ultimate styling. RAKE fingers through the tops of hair using only fingers - no tools required.
SQUISH product into the mid-sections of hair while your head and hair is either upside down or on its side.
SCRUNCH product into the ends of hair by gently cupping hair ends and scrunching them up towards your scalp.

Understanding your hair type can help you pick the haircare routine + products that will suit your hair best. Unsure what hair type you have? Check out our blogpost here to find out.

Products

Hydration throughout the styling process is key - the more hydrated your curls are, the less frizz and more shape + definition they will have. It’s important to make sure all styling products you use are sulphate-free and have hydrating properties as these will make your curls the happiest they can be.

The method of styling and type of products you choose depends on the result you are wanting to achieve. For the purposes of this blog post, we have picked three different desired results, and listed the method + products you should use to achieve each.

Reduce Volume + Frizz

If your main concern is reducing hair volume + frizz, your hair needs more moisture and more product to help control unruly curls. For this you’re going to need heavier conditioning + styling products. On wet hair, start with a leave-in conditioner or a hair-mask which can be applied from roots to the tips of hair. Follow this with a curl-cream and/or a gel for maximum hold. This hair care routine will help decrease volume as it will weigh down hair while still adding necessary hydration to maintain curl shapes.

We Recommend:
- R+Co Twister Curl Primer
- Umberto Giannini Curl Control Cream
- Design.Me Bounce Me Curl Balm
- 12Reasons Creative Curl Creme

Enhance Natural Curls

If you’re happy with your curls but want to enhance those existing, you’ll want to opt for light-medium hold products, focusing on products that hold hair at the roots. Starting at your roots, apply products such as a curl cream, mousse or a light-gel by gently raking them through your hair using your fingers. Moving to the end of your hair, use a leave-in conditioner or scrunching gel making sure not to work these products further than half-way up your hair length.


We Recommend:
- Hask Curl Care Shaping Jelly
- Umberto Giannini Curl Whip Mousse & Curl Jelly Scrunching Jelly
- Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil & No.3 Hair Perfector

Enhance Curls + Volume

To enhance the shape of your curls while also increasing hair volume, only the lightest hair products will be the ones you use. Too many layers of product will weigh hair down, so using only the minimum amount of product is key. Avoiding products that have conditioning properties (such as hair masks and leave-in conditioners) and instead opting for lighter formulas (such as sprays and mousses) will allow for maximum root lift and volume.

We Recommend:
- Olaplex No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask & No.6 Bond Smoother
- R+Co Turntable Curl Defining Cream
- Keracolor Text It Up Texurizing Cream
- Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse - Hask Curl Care 5-in-1 Leave In Spray

STEP 4 - HAIR DRYING

Air is Your BFF

The Curly Girl Method puts a big cross next to the use of styling tools (such as hair dryers and brushes) to dry your curly hair. Heat drys hair, damages the natural curl structure of hair and adds frizziness. The same goes for hair brushes. Because of this, it’s back to basics but letting hair dry the natural way - using just the air around you! While this may take longer than a convenient blow-dry, the results are phenomenal - it’s def worth the wait Using fingers or a wide tooth comb to detangle hair is also the best method to avoid excess hair breakage and damaging your hair curl structure.

Plopping

Plopping is probably one of the BEST words to be used in haircare so far. It is an alternative way to drying curly hair that increases drying time without causing unnecessary damage. Drying curls with an ordinary towel does more damage than good. Hair curls become stretched (from towel twisting + heavy weight) and frizzy (from the rough towel fabric) leading to easy breakage and undefined curl shapes. Plopping however keeps wet curls compact and scrunched. Roots are able to maintain their volume, curls retain their definition and hair cuticles stay smooth and intact. Basically, it's the Curly Girl Method approved alternative to twisting a towel around your head.

How to Plop
Plopping requires you to use a cotton T-shirt, a pillow case or a microfibre towel (such as the XOBeauty Hair Wraps) on wet curls as these materials are much lighter and gentler on curly hair. Simply mound hair on top of your head, wrap around your chosen material and secure. No twisting of your hair is necessary. Need a visual? Check out the demo video below for plopping using a T-shirt.

@katieleigghh This is how I learned to plop my hair  let me know how I can improve! #fyp #ColorCustomizer ♬ original sound - Katie Leigh

Do I need to Plop?
It should be noted that not all hair requires plopping. The thicker and more voluminous the curls you have, the less necessary plopping may be. This is because your curls already are relatively defined and have lots of volume - you already have the things plopping aims to achieve. Those with medium curls may need to plop if wanting to increase curl shape + volume at the roots. Curly girls with fine curls are those who will benefit the most from plopping and the results between plopping and not-plopping will be the most drastic.

After Plopping
Once hair is dry, remove your plopping material of choice, and very gently scrunch your curls using your hands. This will break any product coatings that have formed without ruining the curl patterns that have formed.

STEP 5 - WASH-STYLE-DRY-REPEAT

Curl Maintenance

To maintain the Curly Girl Method, we recommend running through steps 2-5 around once a week. Only use Step 1 of this method if you use a product containing sulphates or silicones as hair will need a full reset + cleanse to get back to looking its best.

To maintain curls between washes, sleeping on a silk pillowcase can reduce damaging or flattening curls. Spraying through a leave-in conditioner or light-weight products such as Umberto Giannini No More Frizz Curl Serum can also help define curls and add hydration between washes. Daily hair scrunching (either with or without product) can also help freshen up curls.

Finding What Works For You

All hair is different, and everyone has their own styling preferences. Various curl textures + thicknesses + lengths will have different needs so the method and regularity at which you style your hair is completely up to you. Getting to that haircare sweet spot may take some trial and error but once you get there, your curls will never have looked better.

To sum up though, there are some things you should always avoid when following the Curly Girl Method to keep your curls looking their absolute best. These are set out in the “avoid list” below.

The Avoid List:

- Shampoo (especially those with sulphates)
- Products containing sulphates + silicones
- Heated hair styling tools
- Combs + brushes (use only fingers or wide tooth combs if detangling is required)
- Non-soluble oils + solutions
- Waxes
- Drying products such as alcohol based solutions

The longer you adhere to the Curly Girl Method, the better your curls will be and the less maintenance they will need. Allowing your natural curl pattern to reset itself takes time, love and care but once it does, you can enjoy healthy, glossy and well defined curls. It’s a lot of work, but the results definitely make it worth it!!

Wanting to see all of our Curly Girl Method Approved products? Check them all out: Curly Girl Method Approved Products